June 20, 2008

West Coast Trail

Last week I hiked the world-famous West Coast Trail on Vancouver Island, Canada. Here are some pictures from my trip.


I took the ferry from Port Angeles, Washington to Victoria, BC. I was blessed with a clear day for the crossing, so I was treated to awesome views of the Olympic Mountains and the Strait of Juan de Fuca.

Victoria is a beautiful city.

I spent the night in Victoria, then headed out to the trail the next morning. Heading from north to south, the first 6 miles (10 km) are deceptively easy, along a flat, well maintained, dry trail.

Parks Canada was nice enough to put kilometer markers along the entire route. The sign for 1 km was missing.

There were two lighthouses along the trail - a small taste of civilization in the wilds of Vancouver Island.

Much of the hike is (as the name "West Coast Trail" might suggest) along the beach. I spent my first afternoon and evening hiking along this wonderful stretch of sand. This is the view from my tent that first night. Awesome!

There were lots of small creeks and waterfalls along the trail, providing beauty and cold drinking water.

I spent most of my second day hiking along the beach as well. Here is the famous "Hole in the Wall". I hiked through it since the tide was quite low.

This is Nitinat Narrows, a river that is obviously a little too big to hike across. A ferryman picks up hikers and takes them across the river from 10 am to 4 pm. I hiked very quickly all afternoon to make sure I didn't miss the boat - I arrived at 3:45!

The ferryman also goes crabbing...

And will cook one up for you (accompanied by an ice-cold microbrew) for a small fee.

I camped on this beach my second night. Imagine mile after mile of these pristine, wild beaches, with virtually no other people around. The pictures don't even come close to showing how amazing the WCT was.

My third morning was probably my favorite time on the hike. I walked along the beach for hours, stopping to investigate all the tidepools along the way. I saw lots of cool sea life, including this little guy who appeared ready for a fight. Maybe he was mad at me for eating his big brother the day before.
There were a few starfish, too. In addition to the tidepool critters, I saw humpback whales, sea lions, deer, mice, pine martens, bald eagles, and lots of sea birds. Thankfully, I didn't bump into any bears, cougars, or wolves!

That same morning (when I was already in a good mood from the beautiful beach walk), I stopped for breakfast at Chez Monique, a small cafe on the beach along the trail. Prices were much higher than you'd find in the outside world, but I was more than willing to spend some of my Canadian dollars to get some real food in me.

The best $20 I've ever spent: bacon, eggs, toast, hash browns, an orange, and a Coke. Seriously, I felt like Superman after breakfast.

In many ways, the West Coast Trail is a sort of obstacle course. The trail is well known for its cable cars, used to cross rivers that are too deep to walk across. Riding the cable cars was great fun - it's a quick ride to the middle of the line, but then it's a lot of work to pull the car from there to the other end.

The trail also has over 100 bridges of varying types and sizes. This was my favorite - a one-foot wide suspension bridge swinging over the river below.
The trail is also justifiably well known for its endless ladders, particulary on the stretch between Walbran and Camper Creeks. Here's a fellow hiker descending one of the longer ones.

Some sets of ladders looked pretty imposing from the bottom.

Most of the last 15 miles (25 km) of the hike went through a muddy bog. By the time I finished, I was coated in mud up to my knees. In some places, park management had installed a series of boardwalks to help hikers through the challenging terrain. This one was in very good condition...

...but this one wasn't! Sometimes the boardwalk was in such disrepair that it was easier not to walk on it! Actually, there were some stretches far worse than this - they were just so muddy that I didn't want to put my pack down to take my camera out. I just wanted to get through as quickly as possible!
The End! When you reach the end of the trek, a sign instructs you to raise the buoy to notify the ferry that you are ready to be picked up and brought back to civilization. After a two hour bus ride back to Victoria (with a stop for a bagel and ice cream), another two hour ferry ride back to the USA, and a four hour drive to Portland, I was home!

May 24, 2008

Weekend at the Coast

Last weekend, I took a couple much needed days away from work to enjoy some unseasonably hot weather on the northern Oregon Coast. I knocked out five hikes from the "60 Hikes within 60 Miles of Portland" book - over 30 miles in two days - and camped for the night at Cape Lookout State Park. Below are some shots of the weekend. It's hard to believe that all these pictures were taken less than two hours from downtown Portland.


Early morning on the Coast.


A lighthouse perched on a rock, off the coast. I think I would've liked to be the lighthouse keeper here, if only for a couple weeks.


Awesome bridge on the Drift Creek Falls trail.



View from below the bridge (check the upper right corner of the picture), with very cool (literally, the spray was welcome relief from the heat) Drift Creek Falls in the foreground.

May 15, 2008

Belize and Guatemala

Over Christmas break 2007, I took a quick two week run down to Belize and Guatemala to escape the chilly Oregon winter. My thoughts on both countries:

Belize: if you like the beach and want a short, cheap, and somewhat exotic trip from the USA, I can't recommend Belize enough. The country has an awesome mix of jungles, beaches, and spectacular underwater scenery - I spent about half my trip on, in, or right next to the water, much of that with a snorkel in my mouth. The diving wasn't quite as good as in Egypt, but it's a whole lot closer and easier to get to. Belize generally has good food, as long as you like rice and beans (and cheap lobster!), and it's not too expensive although definitely it's a lot pricer than Guatemala. I probably won't go back, as I discovered that I'm not much of a beach person, but it was fun nonetheless.

Guatemala: I only spent three days in Guatemala, all at the Mayan historic site Tikal and the nearby city of Flores, so I can't really comment on the country as a whole. But, what I saw was fantastic. It had long been a dream of mine to climb a Mayan pyramid - I got chills sitting atop Templo IV at Tikal all alone watching the sunset, with monkeys and birds rustling in the canopy all around. That one hour was worth the whole trip. Plus, Guatemala was cheap, had great food, and it was really fun to use my Spanish again (I definitely got a sense of nostalgia for South America...). I'll be going back someday to Guatemala to see the rest of this beautiful country.








My New Home

After returning from Iceland in September 2007, I moved from California, where I had lived for the previous five years, to take a new job in Portland, Oregon. I desperately needed a change of scenery... and, even more desperately, a full time job after two years of piecing together a part-time living between trips.

I've been in Portland for nearly a year now, and I've never felt so "at home" anywhere before, a bold statement considering all the places I've lived. Yes, the weather stinks sometimes, but the outdoors opportunities within two hours of my apartment are virtually endless. I've been devoting a lot of my time to getting to know my new home, and have no international travel plans for the immediate future, although the direct Portland-to-Tokyo flight is tempting.

Here's a shot of Mt. Hood, my local peak, that I took on my first Oregon hike after moving up here.


Iceland

Nearly a year since my last post, I'm getting around to blogging again. My first task is to update the site for my trip to Iceland last summer, August 2007. I spent three weeks on the island.

I enjoyed my Iceland trip, but not as much as I thought I would. It was beautiful on sunny days, and misery on rainy days (it didn't help that the high costs of the country necessitated that I sleep in a tent every night of the trip). And, in a way, it felt like "wilderness lite", after visiting Patagonia, Canada, and even parts of the USA. I can see how it is so attractive for Europeans, though, since the choices for true wilderness travel are much more limited on their continent.

Highlights of the trip included: the drive across the interior of the island along the Kjoler Route, puffin watching on the beautiful Westmann Islands, and the two sunny days of hiking I got in at Skaftafell National Park.

Lowlights of the trip included: whale watching in Husavik (paled in comparison to whale watching I've done in other places), extraordinarily high food prices, and the weather.

I'm so glad I went to see Iceland but I don't think I'll go back, mainly due to expense of getting there and the fact that the raw nature in North and South America is more spectacular.



















June 12, 2007

Adventure Sports in Moab, Utah

My drive ended in Moab, Utah, where I spent a few days hiking in Arches National Park and rafting on the Colorado River.



My kayak-raft



The armada of rafts, kayaks, and canoes on the Colorado River



The only way to travel





Money shots of Delicate Arch, Arches National Park



Hiking to Sand Dune Arch, Arches National Park



Sand Dune Arch, Arches National Park



These little guys were everywhere



I saw a few little bunnies while out hiking in the more secluded sections. I also saw an enormous jackrabbit but it ran away before I could get a picture.



View of Canyonlands National Park





Hiking in the Fiery Furnace, Arches National Park